Behind the Kremlin Wall in Moscow

After posting about the awesomeness that is the Red Square Moscow, guess what is next? We are going behind the Kremlin Wall! Московский Кремль

What is behind the Kremlin Wall in Moscow? The first word that comes to mind: DIAMONDS!! Of course, there are many other things but I cannot stop thinking about the bowels of diamonds and other jewels in the Diamond Fund.

There are so many treasures in the Armoury that I cannot list all of them. Let’s cover a few of the highlights!

Kremlin Wall, Moscow

First up: crowns! The Armoury has several crowns: Monomakh’s Cap, also known as the Golden Cap, which was the crown for the Russian Grand Princes (precursor to Tsar) and later Tsars. It was created in the late 13th to early 14th century in Central Asia, 200 years after the death of Vladimir Monomakh who has no connection to the crown but bears his name according to legend that Byzantine Emperor Constantine gifted the crown to his grandson Vladimir Monomakh. The first wearer of the crown was Ivan I Kalita (moneybag), Grand Prince of Moscow in the early 14th century, during the Mongol yoke. 

Ivan IV (Grozny – mistranslated in English as Ivan the Terrible (Иван Грозный​ or Иван Васильевич), closer to inspiring fear, formidable or tough) crowned himself as Tsar of all the Russias with the Monomakh Cap; the first Tsar of Russia. Before they had been crowned Grand Princes but this signaled a major shift in Russia that had started with his grandfather Ivan III (the Great) to overthrow the Mongol horde which started with refusing to pay tribute under Ivan III who also annexed surrounding lands of Moscow.

The Kazan Cap was made for Ivan the Terrible in 1553 after conquering the Kazakh khanate. It was not used to crown Ivan nor any other tsars.

Monomakh Cap (foreground) and Kazan Crown (background) via Wikipedia

The Monomakh Cap was used until Peter the Great took the title of Emperor and designed a new Imperial Crown. Other crowns have been worn such as the Kazan Cap but not for coronations. Below is a crown of Tsar Mikhail, the first Romanov Tsar, which was made by the Kremlin Armoury in 1627, long after his coronation in 1613. Also included is the sceptre and orb of Boris Godunov, first a regent to Ivan the Terrible’s son Fyodor I and then the first non-Rurikid tsar from 1598-1605 after seizing the throne following the death of childless Fyodor. The end of Boris’s  reign had thrown Russia into the Time of Troubles.

Crown of Tsar Mikhail Fyodorovich with orb and sceptre of Boris Godunov via Wikipedia

Below are three of the thrones found behind the Kremlin Wall in the Armoury. Clockwise, you have the joint throne of Peter I the Great (Пётр Алексеевич) and his brother Ivan V, Alexis I and Ivan IV the Terrible. In the double throne for Ivan and Peter, you can see the hole in the back for their sister, Sophia, who was regent, was able to whisper instructions or answers when conversing with the Boyars (nobles). Sophia would later rise up against Peter when he was ready to assume full control of the throne. Ivan, who was sickly and feeble-minded, was not an issue. Peter became the sole ruler in 1696 when Ivan finally succumbed to his illnesses.

Russian Thrones – Tsars Peter the Great (and Ivan V), Alexei I and Ivan IV the Terrible via Wikipedia

The Armoury also houses Imperial dress, carriages, golden bibles and decorated silverware, armour and many other items. The Armoury also has an excellent Faberge Egg collection. Below is an egg made by Peter Carl Faberge for Tsar Nicholas II and he presented it to his wife, Tsaritsa Alexandra. It contains the portrait of eighteen Romanov Tsars including Mikhail I, Peter I the Great, Catherine II the Great and Nicholas II himself, who ended up as Russia’s last Tsar/Emperor.

Romanov Tercentenary Egg, Armoury, Moscow via Wikipedia

There are also many Imperial carriages for Tsars and Tsarinas; in particular is the one for Catherine II the Great (Екатерина II Великая) dating to 1769. The room must have held 20 carriages at least; most were gold-plated and simply gorgeous.

Catherine the Great’s carriage, Armoury, Kremlin, Moscow via Wikipedia

Below are a few other items of Catherine the Great: portrait of her coronation on the left with her crown, orb and coronation dress on the right. The Imperial Crown was made for and first worn by Catherine II during her coronation in 1762 and used by all following Russian rulers. The Imperial Orb was made for the coronation of Catherine as well. There are 1370 total diamonds. The last image is Catherine’s coronation dress. The Armoury had a large room of royal dresses, coronation dresses and robes, and tapestries.

Catherine the Great Regalia, Armoury, Kremlin, Moscow via Wiki

As you make your way from the upper floors of the Armoury to the lower exit, you will see the Diamond Fund entrance. You pay here if you don’t have a ticket and go through another set of metal detectors. Once you make your way inside, the lights are dim and the jewels sparkle!

Below on the left is the famous and gorgeous Orlov Diamond, given to Empress Catherine II the Great from her lover Grigory Orlov, with whom she had two secret children. Catherine had taken a new lover, Potemkin, and Orlov sought to restore Catherine’s affection and presented the 189 carat Orlov Diamond in 1773, one of the world’s most impressive diamonds. Catherine had it made into the new royal scepter and it was used at all following coronations (Catherine’s coronation sceptre has been lost). Catherine declined Orlov’s advances but kept the diamond. Hell yes she did. My girl Catherine liked her jewels.

On the right hand, lovely Kokoshnik Diadem with 175 diamonds and a 13 carat pink diamond in the center. The brilliant green emerald (my favourite jewel) is 136 carats. On the right, the third jewel is the Shah Diamond; weighs around 88 carats and has a fascinating history. It was discovered before 1591 in India and was later given to Tsar Nicholas I in 1829 as an apology after a Russian diplomat was killed in Tehran. Apology accepted!  The names of three of its former owners were engraved on the original faces: earliest date is 1591. The blue sapphire weighs 260 carats! The last crown is the Russian Field Diadem, made of platinum, gold and brilliant colors. 

Diamond Fund, Armoury, Kremlin, Moscow via Wikipedia

The Armoury and Diamond Fund are two of many places to visit behind the Kremlin Wall in Moscow. There are numerous other places to visit such as: Cathedral Square that is surrounded by three cathedrals including my favourite, Cathedral of the Archangel Michael, built in 1505-1508, where many of the Muscovite Grand Princes are buried including Ivan Kalita, Ivan the Terrible, Alexei I and Mikhail I. Peter the Great moved the burial of the Tsars to his new city, St. Petersburg.

Ivan the Terrible tomb per Wikipedia

Tips for Visiting the Kremlin

The Diamond Fund is located in the Armoury building behind the Kremlin Wall. You must buy your Armoury ticket in advance at Kutafya Tower in Aleksandrovsky Sad (garden) and can only enter during your specified time. If you purchase your ticket first thing in the morning, you can probably enter not long after. You must also leave all backpacks in a storage facility near the entrance (ladies may take a purse or cross-over bag which I did).

The Armoury (including the Diamond Fund) is not open on Thursday.

I picked up an audio guide for 50 rubles which was helpful; gave a bit more information even though I have several degrees in Russian history and knew much already. I would recommend an audio guide or even a Tour through Viator for the Armoury if you have limited Russian history knowledge.

Buying tickets is not easy especially if you do not speak Russian. I find when something is complicated in Russia, the explanation is simple: because Russia. They have pictures so you can point to it if you don’t know any of the language. Make sure you get all the tickets you want as they are sold separate.

• Cathedral Square ticket -350 rubles
• Armoury -700 rubles
• Ivan the Terrible Bell Tower -500 rubles
• Diamond Fund ticket is 500 rubles – buy this within the Armoury and go through another set of metal detectors (cash only)

FYI: When I was in Moscow in February 2014, the Ivan the Great Bell Tower was closed. It should be re-opening spring 2014.

There are two entrances: buy your ticket first near Kutafya Tower (half way – near entrance 1 on the map) and if you are only going to Armoury/Diamond Fund, walk the rest of way down to Borovitskaya Tower (entrance 2). If you wish to see the cathedrals first, your entrance is near the ticket office.

Kremlin Entrance via askmoscow

One final note: as you have noticed, only one of the above is my picture. The Kremlin has a strict “no camera” rule and I was warned numerous times before my trip as I researched it online and also several times by my hotel after I arrived. They warned me not to take any cameras and specifically included phones. I usually ignore rules like this and take pictures pretty much wherever I want but I was not about to test Russia.

However, when I entered the Kremlin, guess what I saw? CAMERAS! Everywhere. Yes I am still pissed off. When I return to Moscow, I will risk taking a camera so I can at least take pictures of Cathedral Square or the Bell Tower. Maybe even sneak a picture inside the Armoury. You won’t be able to take anything inside the Diamond Fund; two small rooms and guards in each. So take a camera at your own risk: there were dozens of people with cameras in February 2014. Maybe it was due to the closeness of the Olympics? Maybe next time they will confiscate them at the entry point. I would risk it.

Go forth and enjoy the treasures behind the Kremlin Wall. It will not disappoint. Have you been to the Kremlin yet? How about stopping by Red Square in Moscow as well?

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Red Square Moscow  –  Красная площадь

I finally made it to Russia and in particularly Red Square Moscow after years of planning and planning including getting a Russian visa. It is on my bucket list and a trip of a lifetime! I enjoyed four days in Moscow before heading to Sochi to cheer Canada on during the Sochi 2014 Olympics! I will return to visit St. Petersburg, the Golden Ring, Novgorod and Siberia. There are many places to see in Russia. First up, MOSCOW! I adore this city, even surprising myself with how much….did not expect to fall in love with Moscow. Red Square Moscow lives up to the hype!

This is the iconic image of not only Moscow but also all of Russia. Red Square (Красная площадь or the transliteration is Krasnaya Ploshchad) is located at the what is considered the epicenter of Moscow: the Kremlin on the east, the masterpiece of St. Basil’s Cathedral on the south end, GUM department store on the west, and the creepy Lenin’s mausoleum beside the Kremlin wall. Red Square has seen executions, demonstrations, riots, parades and speeches throughout the centuries, dating back to the 15th century after the Kremlin walls were completed. Red Square is the focal point of Moscow socially and politically. They even set up a skating rink in the Square (although that was annoying since it was in the way when taking pictures).

Kremlin, Red Square, Moscow

I mentioned executions and that is something I want to expand on. Russia’s history is long and complicated but also quite turbulent. During the reign of Ivan the Terrible, he declared his abdication of the Russian throne several times and tortured the hostile boyars in Red Square Moscow. During the reign of Peter the Great, the Kremlin guard (Streltsy) rebelled and he executed the guards in Red Square; many were executed personally by Peter himself, ending a long struggle with the guard who had rebelled a decade earlier under Peter’s sister Sophia.

St. Basil’s Cathedral, Red Square, Moscow

Krasnaya is now translated as red but originally it was beautiful (today beautiful is красивый – krasivyy but the ending changes due to gender/number). The name of Red Square has nothing to do with communism; it is most likely named for the beauty of St. Basil’s. It really is a gorgeous area; I was lucky enough to book a hotel nearby with a view of the Kremlin and St. Basil’s Cathedral. That was a great decision!

Lenin’s Mausoleum

To visit Lenin’s Mausoleum, all electronics such as phones and cameras must be checked in a nearby building (for a small fee) and there is no charge for entry to view Lenin’s body. You walk through a metal detector and then make your way to the mausoleum. Don’t forget to keep an eye out for others buried on your right hand side near the Kremlin wall. Stalin is buried there as well as Brezhnev, Dzerzhinsky, Kalinin plus many others. If you love creepy dead bodies and graves, this is the place for you! Lenin is still a murdering bastard but it is something to see.

Lenin’s Mausoleum, Red Square, Moscow

I visited last month (February 2014) and there wasn’t a line. But I suspect the line will be longer in the summer so go first thing in the day. Basically, you move slowly while walking around the glass-encased body of Lenin: do not talk or chew gum as respect is key and the guards will not bother you. Lenin is fairly well-preserved; I do believe this is actually Lenin even though he does look rubbery. It looks like a body that has been on display for decades; it is not perfectly preserved. He is freshened up every 18 months and this is a must on your stop in Red Square Moscow.

Lenin’s Body, Red Square, Moscow via Wikipedia

After visiting Lenin, go back to pick up your electronics so you can take photographs of Red Square. When I was in Moscow, the Russians had set up a skating rink in Red Square which took up quite a bit of space and blocked attempts to get the whole Square pictured.

St. Basil’s Cathedral

Saint Basil’s Cathedral is also known as The Cathedral of Vasily the Blessed or The Cathedral of the Intercession of the Virgin by the Moat. It is the iconic image of Russia and it does not disappoint. It was built by Ivan the Terrible in the mid-16th century to commemorate the capture of Kazan from the Mongols in 1552 by builders Barma and Postnik Yakovlev. There is a fantastical legend: the builders were blinded by Ivan the Terrible so they could not create anything as beautiful as St. Basil’s again. I enjoy the legend even though it is not accurate.

St. Basil’s Cathedral, Red Square, Moscow

You can enter the Cathedral as it is partly a museum now; it is open daily from 11:00-17:00 and the entrance fee is 250 rubles. It is worth a quick visit inside to see icons and paintings. Words do St. Basil’s no justice; go and see for yourself. It is a trip you will never forget. While Russia may not be on anyone’s destination list right now due to the invasion of Ukraine’s Crimea, keep it in mind and you will not be disappointed.

Have you visited Russia? What did you think of Red Square? How about the a trip behind the Kremlin Wall?

Australia’s Overlooked Historical Wonders

From the Acropolis in Greece to the Forbidden Palace in China to Machu Pichu in Peru, there are so many history-rich destinations for a globe trotter to roam. For a history addict like me, standing in places with such extraordinary historical significance means stepping back hundreds or thousands of years into the lives of our predecessors.

But there’s one gem in the world that is often overlooked when contemplating history: a place that seems comparatively young, despite its long life. Australia is often left off of the list of historically significant places, which I believe to be a mistake.

Geological History

Of course, being many flavors of history nerd, I feel obliged to begin by mentioning that Australia’s geological history is fascinating. To me, there are few ways to better get to know an area than to learn how it came to be. Australia is home to volcanoes, glacier-sculpted landscapes, and plentiful mineral stores.

Geologically speaking, Australia’s most famous feature is Uluru, also known as Ayers Rock, the gigantic sandstone monolith in central Australia. Of particular interest might be the columnar dolerite cliffs of Tanzania, volcanic beauties of Victoria, the sea cliffs of Loch Ard Gorge, and Wave Rock in Hayden.

Uluru via Creative Commons

Australia has huge expanses of land to cross with many routes to take, making it difficult to plan how to get from one geological marvel to the next. To make the best of your gas and time, you may choose to sign up for one of the many Australian tours that cross the nation that will hit highlights in between cities you want to visit.

Earliest Humans & Indigenous Culture

Australia’s human history goes back around 50,000 years. Scientists are still not quite united on how the earliest denizens of Australia made it there, whether via boats or via land bridges that have since disappeared under rising sea levels. There are museum exhibits across the country dedicated to these early Australians, particularly to the extraordinary survival skills of the Bushmen who lived in the harsh conditions of the Outback, skills that have been passed down to their modern ancestors.

One of my favorite aspects of Australia is its history of Aboriginal art which spans thousands of years. From sacred petroglyphs to weaving techniques, there are such beautiful traditional colors and patterns to be enjoyed either in museums or in the work of contemporary artists.

Aboriginal Memorial_National Gallery of Australia via Creative Commons

Ancestral Aboriginal people have faced great adversity with the process of globalization. As with many native peoples, they have been dispossessed and marginalized in Australian culture for hundreds of years. Any student of history will enjoy learning about the inspiring quest for Aboriginal social justice and the brave individuals that lead the fight for equality. Most historical museums in Australia will feature a section on the subject and the Aboriginal Heritage Museum in Northbridge, NSW focuses on it.

Modern History

Australia was claimed for Britain in 1770 by the famous Captain James Cook almost a hundred years after its discovery by Europeans. Within a couple of decades, over 150,000 Australians were brought overseas to their rugged new home as convicts, beginning a new life that is remembered today by many Australians as part of their family history.

Immigration became a major source of population increase throughout the 19th century. Notable groups moving to Australia came from Greece, Britain, and India. Many people came, as with the American West, to take jobs in the industries that required manual labor- mining, railroad building, etc. These people have formed communities with strong ties to their original homelands while also forming a distinct Australian culture. The history of such immigrants, too, is an important element of the Australian identity.

Australia officially became its own nation on January 1st, 1901. Not even two decades later, it entered the First World War and suffered massive casualties- almost 65% of the young men who went out to war never came home. You can visit the Australian War Memorial to learn more about the servicemen and women who fought for Australia and peruse the archives housed there.

Australia War Memorial via Creative Commons

Australia has a resonant history that is both intensely unique and also born from many parts of the world. Considered a “young” country, it’s easy to dismiss it as not having much of a story to tell. But Australia is one of the true melting pots, with thousands of years of cultural antiquity and a historical microcosm of colonialism and immigration on top of that. Take some time to get to know the long and fascinating of history of Australia- you might just be surprised what you find.

Julius Wright is a travel writer and photographer with a love of trying new foods and learning cultural history.